The Rediculous Combo Deck!

     Here is the deck list of the insane combo deck we made from the stream tonight. All of these cards plus a few Legendary Creatures were made into quite the interesting deck. Watch us play this on our stream!

Infinite Mill/Lifeloss:

Mindcrank x2
Duskmantle Guildmage x2

The No Card Left Victory:

Enter the Infinite
Omniscience
Laboratory Maniac
Plus Any From of Card Draw

The True Infinite Blocker:

Fated Return
Palisade Giant

Biovisionary Win:

Biovisionary x4
Tempt With Reflection
Clone x3
Fated Infatuation

Door to Win:

Door to Nothingness x2
Kiora's Follower

Infinite Life Gain/Loss Loop:

Exquisite Blood
Sanguine Bond

Maze's End:

Maze's End
One of Every Guild Gate

Support Cards:

Diabolic Tutor
Ring of Three Wishes
Traumatize
Arbiter of the Ideal
Mindslaver
Alchemist's Refuge
Staff of Nin
Bonfire of the Dammed

Support Creatures and Planeswalkers:

Wall of Denial
Tajic, Blade of the Legion
Mirko Vosk, Mind Drinker
Nekusar, the Mindrazer
Aurelia, the Warleader
Tromokratis
Teysa, Envoy of Ghosts
Pestilence Deamon
Artisan of Kozilek
Ral Zarek
Ashiok, Nightmare Weaver
Tamiyo, the Moon Sage

III. Tournaments and Ways to Play

     After you have spent some time learning the game, crafting some decks and feeling out your talents as a Planeswalker you may want to give a tournament a try. The best way to find a tournament near you is to pop on over to your local comic shop and check their schedule, or if you are interested in a more large scale event check out StarCityGames and put your zip-code into their event locator.
     Once you have found a tournament that you are interested in, check out the format of the event because you may need to alter your deck to be allowed to play within the format rules.

Formats:

Limited Play:

     If you don't feel like your decks are up to snuff then you should look into a Limited Tournament, these events require the players to build a deck on the spot using a predetermined pool of cards that either come from a selection of boosters or from cards you get in a Draft.

Sealed Play:

     Players open up six boosters and build a deck. The only rule is that a deck must contain a minimum of 40 cards. Plain and simple this is one of the best ways to increase the size of your collection while having a good time with other players.

Booster Draft:

     Grab three to seven of your friends, you get three booster packs each and sit down at a table. At the start of the draft each player picks up a pack, opens it up and pulls out a card that they want then passes the rest of the cards to their left. This continues until all of the cards are drafted then the second pack is opened and the process starts again until all of the cards in all three packs have been drafted. Once all the cards have been drafted each player takes the cards they picked and then builds a deck out of them. Each deck must contain at least 40 cards.

Constructed Play:

     When you have built a quality deck then you should look into some constructed play. There are many different variants in constructed each one only allowing certain cards to be played. Decks must contain at least 60 cards and no more than four copies of any card, not including basic lands.

Standard:

     This format only uses the newest sets. The current block, the block that was released the previous October, and the most recent core set are all that are allowed to be played in a Standard deck. This is the most common format and Standard events can be found year round.

Block Constructed:

     This format uses only cards from a single block. These tournaments usually take their name from the first set in the block, i.e. Innistrad, Dark Ascension and the Avacyn Restored sets make up the Innistrad block.

Extended:

     This format includes all the sets legal in the Standard format and all expansions/core sets from the past four years.

Modern:

     This format allows all cards printed since the modern card frame was introduced in Eighth Edition and the Mirrodin Block.

Vintage:

     If you have a collection of cards that dates back from the first release in 1993, this is the format for you. Every single card ever printed is allowed in this format.

Legacy:

     This format is very similar to Vintage but some cards are not allowed.

Two-Headed Giant:

     If you have ever wanted to play with an ally then you may want to look into this format. A team of two players play against another team of two and you can choose whether you can to play in either Constructed or Limited. Both teams start with 30 life and each team shares a turn.

Another thing to note about these formats is that some specific cards are either banned or restricted to one card per deck. Here is a list (provided by Wizards of the Coast) of these cards, make sure you adhere to these rules or you may be disqualified from a tournament for having them in a deck.

How to Play

     To play a game of Magic you and a friend each need a deck, some way of keeping track of life-totals and a nice open table. To win the game a player must have their life total be reduced to zero or when a player goes to draw a card from their library and there are none left to draw. There are some spells that grant victory upon casting or reaching a specific condition, but they do not happen as often. Once you have found a nice place to play, have your decks and life set, the game can begin.

     When deciding who goes first, it is either the winner of a dice roll or coin toss. Unless you have just played the same opponent, then the loser gets to decide the order. Each player shuffles their deck and draws seven cards. If your opening hand is not to your liking you may shuffle the hand back into your deck and then draw six cards. This is called a mulligan and can be repeated, drawing one less card each time, until you are satisfied. Although it is not an official rule some players allow for a Gentleman's Mulligan, meaning that a player can mulligan at least once without reducing their opening hand size.

     Now that the hands have been draw and the player order chosen, it is time to take the first turn. And here is how it goes:

- Beginning Phase

     I. Untap Step:
     Untap all of your tapped permanents. No spells or abilities may be cast during this step.
     II. Upkeep Step:
     This step activates a number of cards, if something is supposed to happen just once per turn this is when it happens. Instants and abilities are now allowed to be cast.
     III. Draw Step:
     Time to draw a card. (The player who goes first skips this step to even out the advantage of going first.)

- Main Phase

     Any number of cards can be played during this phase, though only if the player has enough land to cast them. This is also the phase where a land can be played. Only one land is allowed to be played per turn, unless said otherwise by a card that was cast or that is currently on the field. Opponents may cast instants or activate abilities on this turn.

- Combat Phase

     I. Beginning of Combat Step:
     Players can cast instants and activate abilities and this is the last chance for your opponent to stop your creatures from attacking.
     II. Declare Attackers Step:
     Now is when you decide which untapped creatures of yours will attack which opposing player or Planeswalker. This taps the attacking creature. Instants can be cast and abilities can be activated.
     III. Declare Blockers Step:
     Your opponent now decides which untapped creatures of their control will block your attacking creatures. If multiple creatures block a single attacker you chose which is the first to receive the damage, which is second and so on. Instants can be cast and abilities can be activated.
     IV. Combat Damage Step:
     All attacking and blocking creatures that are still on the field deals its damage to its target. Whether that be another creature, player or Planeswalker. If an attacking creature is being blocked by multiple creatures then the attacking player divides the damage among the blockers, though enough damage must me assigned to the first blocker to kill it before damage can be assigned to the others. The attacking player chooses the order of the blockers. Once damage has been assigned it is all dealt at once. Players can then cast instants and activate abilities.
     V. End of Combat Step:
     Players can cast instants and activate abilities.

- Main Phase II

     Same as the first main phase, if a land wasn't played in the first main phase you can play it now.

- Ending Phase

     I. End Step:
     Abilities that trigger at the beginning of your end step now activate.
     II. Cleanup Step:
     If you have eight or more cards in your hand, now is when you choose which to discard until you are back down to seven. Next, all damage on creatures that did not kill is removed and all until end of turn and this turn effects end. No spells can be cast and only abilities that trigger during this step can be activated.

- Side Notes:

     Tapping means to literally turn a card sideways, and once a card is tapped it remains tapped until the Untap Step or another card allows you to untap it. In the case of land tapping adds the resource to your pool and any leftover resources in your pool are removed at the end of the turn.

     Another thing to always keep in mind is the Golden Rule of Magic which states that if a rule on a card contradicts the rulebook itself, the card overrules it.

     Resolving: When a spell is cast it goes into a sort of limbo where the opponent is able cast a counter to stop it from resolving. When a spell resolves, if it is an instant or sorcery, its effect activates, then the card goes to the graveyard. If the spell is a creature, artifact, enchantment or Planeswalker, you put the card on the table in front of you. The card is now on the battlefield.

     When a card is Exiled it is removed from the game and remains there forever unless whatever put it there is able to bring it back.

Card Types

     Within the game of Magic there are seven types of cards, each with their own rules:

- Creature

- Artifact

- Instant

- Sorcery

- Land

- Enchantment

- Planeswalker

     Below is the basic anatomy of a magic card, note that the power and toughness section only applies to creatures and their subtypes.

     Creatures are a type of permanent, meaning they stay on the field after being cast. Most will have at least one different subtype like Ooze, Human, ect. These subtypes will come into play later, but for now we will just acknowledge their existence. Creatures are the only card type that is allowed to attack or block and have their power/toughness levels denoted on the bottom right hand corner of the card.

     Artifacts are another type of permanent that sits on the field and has an ability specific to the card listed in the effect/rules portion of the card itself. Most artifacts are colorless, thus being able to be played with any color of Land. Some artifacts have the potential to become creatures, or may be a creature right off the bat. Those cards will then have the type of Artifact Creature.

     Instants are non-permanents, meaning that after they are cast and their effect has taken place they are removed from play and sent to the graveyard. Though, unlike all of the other card types, they are allowed to be played at any point in time during the game as long as you have the resources to cast it. The only exception to this rule is cards with the ability called Flash.

     Sorcery cards are also non-permanents and once their effects have been played out they are sent to the graveyard.

     Lands are permanents that may only be played once per turn and are used by the players as a resource to cast the cards from their libraries. Lands are also called Mana, and do not have a casting cost of their own.

     Enchantments are another type of permanent, similar to the Artifact although they are colored and do not require tapping to be activated once played.

     Planeswalkers are powerful cards that are treated like another player is on your side. They enter the field with a set amount hit-points, or "Loyalty Counters". Their abilities are activated by adding or removing these Loyalty Counters, only once per turn. Planeswalkers can be attacked by your opponents creatures, though your creatures are allowed to block for them. If damage is dealt to a Planeswalker, remove Loyalty Counters from him/her based on the amount of damage, when the amount of counters is reduced to zero or below the Planeswalker is dead.

> Where to Find, and What is Worth Buying

Going Out and Getting Some Cards

     The popularity of Magic means that cards are available to purchase at most major retailers around the world, just look around next time you are shopping and you are bound to find quite the selection. Though if you are lucky enough to have a comic shop near by, you should always go there over any other location. Comic shops are full of fellow nerds that will be more than happy to help you with any questions you may have, and most will have single cards for sale. But that approach to card buying should be reserved until you have a solid knowledge of game mechanics, thus allowing you to build the perfect deck to fit your choice of strategy.

     The first purchase any new player should make is a pre-made starter deck, each deck is a collection of 60 cards with one or two colors and each has a basic strategy meant to introduce new players to the game. Prices for each deck range from $15-$20USD.

     After you feel that you have a good understanding of the game, buying some booster packs may be in order. These packs contain 15 randomized cards but you are guaranteed at least three uncommon cards and one rare. These new cards can be used to augment and improve upon your decks, allowing them play more to your liking. Prices range from $4-$5USD each.

     A must have purchase for new players looking to build a deck of their very own is a core set Deck Builder Toolkit. These packs contain 125 semi-randomized cards, four booster packs, 100 basic land cars and come in a box that can be used to store your new collection. Prices range from $18-$25USD

     Next on the list is the Fat Pack. Each one contains nine boosters of a specific set, 80 basic land cards, two deck boxes and an organized twenty sided die that you can use to keep track of your life total. Prices range from $35-$40USD

     Once you have accumulated a small collection of cards, have some boxes to store everything in and a twenty sided die the purchase of Fat Packs and Toolkits becomes obsolete until a new set of cards is released. Purchasing individual booster packs will provide more bang for your buck as the average price of nine boosters is $36USD while a Fat Pack containing the same amount of boosters averages about $40USD. I know the price difference is minimal but some people like to get as much as they can for every dollar spent. Though the best way to go about buying cards is to find a comic shop that sells individual cards, thus taking out the randomness of boosters and the possibility of getting multiple copies of the same card.

     My local comic shop is kind enough to have all of their cards separated by release and rarity. Prices for individual cards depend on the rarity of the card. Commons are usually valued at $.25USD per card. Uncommons at $.50USD per card. While Rares and Mythic Rares can range from $1 per card and in some cases can be up to $100USD per card.

     $100USD for one card may sound insane, but some people are willing to spend large amounts of money to make sure their deck is perfect. Personally I wouldn't spend more that $10USD on an individual card, but that is solely up to you.

     Something else to mention about comic shops is that they will sometimes buy cards from you and give you store credit that can be put towards other cards that you may be interested in. So if you open up a booster and don't plan on using the rare that you got, pop into your local comic shop and trade it in for something more useful to you.

II. Getting Started

     Magic is a turn based strategy card game that is played with two or more people, each with their own deck of cards, known as a Library. At the beginning of the game each player draws seven cards, sets their life total to 20 and then take turns casting their powerful spells. Sounds simple enough, right? Well, there are a few more details but nothing too severe.

The Colors of Magic

     Before we get into anything of great detail we need to first discuss the five colors of cards, each one having its own properties and styles of play. Look over each one and take note of which one fits most to your preferred play style. There are colorless cards, but those will be mentioned later in the guide:

White

- The color of order, peace and healing. Creatures of this color are known to be small, but with the aid of the player casting spells to protect and enchant, these creatures can become a force to be reckoned with. White is famously known for its ability to gain life for the player and control the opponents board by providing near immunity to his/her creatures and stopping any threats that may arise. White's weakness is in its inability to completely remove threats, favoring a crippling blow instead simply removing the threat.

Blue

- The color of intellect, manipulation and trickery. Strategies of this color revolve around taking control of the game, making players draw cards and and even taking control of the opponents cards. Blue is most well known for its ability to "Mill", making an opponent either draw or discard their entire deck. This win condition bypasses life totals, because once you are out of cards you are out of the game. Blues creatures tend to be weaker, and rather expensive to play. This color is not meant to be played as the aggressor, reactionary tactics are the name of the game when playing blue.

Black

- The color of power, corruption and sacrifice. Black cards are best at destruction, making an opponent discard cards from their hand and making players lose life. This color seeks to win at all cost, players have to be willing to risk their own lives to win the match. Large life, creature and card sacrifices are required to play many of the cards with this color. Black's main weakness is its ability to harm itself almost as badly as the opponent.

Red

- The color of chaos, impulse and fury. The destruction of opposing lands and artifacts, sacrificing permanent resources for temporary but powerful gain and playing spells for massive direct damage. Many decks revolve around summoning a lot of low power creatures early and using "burn" spells to finish off the opponent. The ability to increase a creatures power is also common among red cards, but everything comes at a cost. With its self destructive nature red cards lend themselves to quick and dangerous strategies, hoping to win in the early game or risk losing if the game is dragged for out too long.

Green

- The color of nature, evolution and instinct. Green's strength is in combat, boasting one of the largest and most varied selection of creatures. These creatures tend to be rather powerful for their cost and have abilities that make them more survivable than most. Many green spells focus on making its creatures more powerful, and the acceleration of land cards on the field to make getting out the really expansive cards much more quickly. Green's weakness is in its inability to properly react to spells that aren't currently on the battlefield.

Multi-Colored Cards

Legends, the third expansion released for Magic the Gathering introduced the concept of multi-colored cards. These color combos offer new ways to play and build decks, allowing for strategies to be forged using the strengths and manipulating the weaknesses of each color. A mono-black deck many end up dying from its own spells, but with a splash of white the deck's survivability can be increased greatly.

The Ravnica "Block" of cards released in 2005 and 2006 introduced the ten guilds, each one having its own dual color combination and strategies. This simplified deck construction for some players by specifying exactly what each combination is designed for.

The Boros Legion (Red/White)

- The militaristic guild of the Magic world, the keep the peace and have power in numbers. Cheap creatures and cheap spells work together to take down more powerful enemies.

The Izzet League (Blue/Red)

- The mad scientists and spell-slingers of the realm. Though their crazy experiments can led to some, unfortunate results.

The Golgari Swarm (Green/Black)

- Death is an essential aspect of the life cycle, plague and death is encouraged to increase growth among its members. Sacrificing creatures and playing out of the graveyard is a Golgari specialty.

The Selesnya Conclave (Green/White)

- It's members are dedicated to balance and believe that the needs of the whole will always outweigh the needs of the individual. If you are a fan of building massive armies, Selesnya is for you.

House Dimir (Blue/Black)

- Trafficking in secrets and assassinations the Dimir hide in the shadows, waiting for the right time to strike a killing blow.

The Simic Combine (Blue/Green)

- Charles Darwin's mind would have been blown with what the Simic have done with the species of Ravnica. After failing to protect the natural ecosystems of the world, their focus turned to creating brand new species that thrive beyond their wildest dreams.

The Orzhov Syndicate (Black/White)

- Under the guise of religion, The Orzhov are the organized crime bosses of this world, using the spirits of the dead and hidden tactics they control the world around them.

The Gruul Clans (Red/Green)

- Once the proud defenders of nature, now fragmented and hell bent on destroying civilization. Some do it for revenge, but most just like to break things.

The Azorius Senate (White/Blue)

- Obsessed with controlling those around them, the Azorians have no time for fun and games.

The Cult of Rakdos (Black/Red)

- Death, destruction and mayhem are the only thing the Rakdos are interested in. If it sounds like a good time, they will make one hell of an appearance.

I. Introduction

Hello and welcome to The Unofficial Magic the Gathering Cheat Sheet!

     Magic the Gathering is a trading card game introduced by Wizards of the Coast and created by Richard Garfield way back in 1993. It is one of the most simple, and yet extremely complex games to have hit the market. Magic is a game of multiple strategies and has many different ways to play, with this guide I hope to aid my fellow Planeswalkers and help those who have thought about playing to jump on in without any worries. Feel free to comment and post any constructive criticism in the comment section down below.

     This guide will consist of multiple posts, each section will be titled as to it's content for ease of use:

     I. Introduction

     II. Getting Started

        The Colors of Magic

        Where to Find Cards, and What is Worth Buying

        Card Types

        How to Play

     III. Tournaments and Ways to Play

        Tournament Formats

        Other Ways to Play

        MTGO

     IV. Terminology

     V. Deck Building Tips

Each section is a work in progress, and will be updated on a weekly basis. All rights to Magic the Gathering and Wizards of the Coast belong to their respective owners. This guide is merely my way of helping to building and expand the community for a game that has become a very important part of my life.